The Ford Explorer, built between 1991 and 2001 as a replacement for the small Bronco II, was the backbone of the grocery-getting crowd in the late '90s and into the 2000s. These two generations (1991-1994 and 1995-2001) of Ford-based midsize SUVs were driven by families and soccer moms for a cumulative millions of miles. This includes the similar Mazda Navajo and the Mercury Mountaineer.

While these vehicles' utility as family-friendly SUVs is undeniable, they also have several characteristics that make them appealing as a base for an off-road vehicle build. To start, the base engine for these trucks is the venerable 4.0-liter V-6, an engine that is a potent package for its displacement and was available with both manual and automatic transmissions as well as two-speed transfer cases (both a few manual shift T-cases and electronically shifted versions). Also powering the later Explorers (starting with the 1995 model) was the tried and true small-block multi-port fuel-injected Windsor-based 302 or 5.0L V-8. This is essentially the same engine that came in the hallowed Fox body Ford Mustang of the late '80s and early '90s. Even in the Explorer, this engine came with several performance carryovers from the early '90s Mustang 302. This includes a roller cam and the GT-40 heads and a factory rating of 215 hp and 280 lb-ft of torque. That forms a desirable and reliable powerhouse. Also the ladder-style frame and front suspension of these SUVs was similar to that used in the Ford Ranger series of light trucks. That means that many of the front suspension components are the same between the two platforms (Ranger and Explorer) with similar model years. So, while these Explorers were SUVs, they were also trucks based on durable truck parts rather than smallish car components that make up several more modern "crossover" SUVs.

Other components of note include the damn near bulletproof Ford 8.8 rear axle, Twin Traction Beam front suspension (TTB, 1991-1994), and then later a torsion bar-sprung IFS system that is essentially identical to that of the Ranger (1995-2001). The used market is flush with older Explorers, many of which have well over 200,000 miles on them and can be found with many desirable options for well under $2,000. Sadly, the year span means you can't get an explorer with TTB, the 5.0L V-8, and a manual transmission. In fact, you can't get the second-generation V-8-powered Explorer with a real transfer case by that we mean one with a true low range. Luckily, we can fix that as many others have done in the past by using inexpensive junkyard-fresh parts from similar-year Ford F-150s and other Ford products. The end result is a more capable 5.0L-powered Explorer, something we'd like to continue to play with.

We're Not the First

Here's a fact: Many others have worked out the formula necessary for this swap to be successful. We are merely copying what others have done gathering info from a few sources, both online (several forums lay out the details) and via our friends in the Explorer community. We don't claim to be the originators of these ideas, they are just something that's always intrigued us and seem to follow a pretty simple formula.

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Parts List

• A 1997-2003 Borg Warner 4406 manual shift from an F-150 (1997-1998 if you have a 1996-1997 Explorer)
• Shift linkage, shifter, knob and boot from the 4406 in the F-150
• Front driveshaft from a 4.6L-powered 1997-2003 F-150
• Rear drive shaft and slip from a Ford Expedition or Lincoln Navigator
• A 1310-1330 conversion U-joint for the front driveshaft (Spicer PN: 5-134X, Moog PNs: 253, 353, 275, Neapco PN: 1-0134)
• Silicone gasket maker and a paper gasket for either an Explorer or F-150 T-case (Dorman PN: 917-522)
• General hand tools including some way of making a hole for the shifter

Getting the Parts

For whatever reason, perhaps because Explorer folks are a thrifty bunch, almost everything we needed to complete this swap was gathered at our local pick-a-part junkyard. Honestly, even the driveshafts, the T-case, and the shifter came from one local yard and were gathered in one day. Someone else even removed the transfer case for us—we guess they wanted the transmission ahead of it, a part we already had. One day's trip to the local pick-a-part-style junkyard yielded basically everything we needed minus the few new bits we got at the local parts store.

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We were pleasantly surprised when we only had to visit one junkyard to gather all the parts we needed for the swap. We even found the 4406 transfer case from a 1997 F-150 already removed from the vehicle. That included the shifter with bracket, and the front driveshaft.

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This is the Navigator/Expedition rear driveshaft that we need for the swap. It was still installed in the SUV a few rows down from the F-150.

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Luckily, the 1997 F-150 that we got our T-case from also had the front driveshaft on the ground still attached to the BW4406 transfer case, and the truck was a 4.6L (the trucks with a 5.4 will have a longer driveshaft). Also note the conversion U-joint we got from the parts store.

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On the right is the BW 4406. It's big and has a rear slip yoke rather than a fixed yoke rear output. The Navigator/Expedition rear driveshaft slips right in and is the correct length for the swap. The AWD case on the left is the one we pulled out. It's smaller and does less. It also has a Borg Warner designation number, but that's less important than getting the correct F-150 two-speed case.

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Here is the shift lever, shift lever bracket, and connecting rod that came off the same truck that had the transfer case in it. You'll also want to grab the large bolts that bolt the bracket to the transmission, and the shift knob, which is discontinued. Sadly, our shift knob was missing. You can also remove the bolt holding the shift lever to the bracketry and install just the bracket to the transmission before you make your hole in the floor for the shifter. More on that in a minute.

The Install

First remove the factory all-wheel-drive (AWD) transfer case. You can try to sell it, scrap it, or disassemble it and make it into some yard art. The first step in this process is to remove the front and rear drive shafts. Then disconnect any wires and the vent line going to the AWD T-case. 1995-1998 Explorers may have a speed sensor that needs to be disconnected from the AWD case and attached to the 1997-1998 F-150 case.

To make access to the bolts and installation easier, we recommend pulling the T-case crossmember and allowing the engine and drivetrain to drop down. The top bolts that hold the T-case to the transmission are hard to get at. You will also need to bend back or trim down the metal bracket that supports the front inside corner of the gas tank to clear the larger T-case. We also removed a fair amount of the exhaust for clearance. Most of the parts we removed from the exhaust can be put back after the installation of the 4406 transfer case, but you'll want the space while installing it.

Then install the shifter bracket to the side of the transmission (here's hoping you grabbed the bolts from the F-150 to hold the bracket to the transmission) and make a hole into the cab for the shifter (see how we did that).

We then used a floor jack and some ratchet straps to help get the 4406 roughly into place so we could slide it onto the back of the transmission. We'd highly recommend having the vehicle on a lift and using a transmission jack, or invite friends over to help lift the 4406 into place. It's big and heavy and just barely fits. Make sure to add a fresh paper gasket (Dorman PN: 917-522) and gasket maker to the mating surface of the T-case and transmission. The tailshaft of the transmission can fill with transmission fluid and leak out between the two units. Then swap the conversion U-joint onto the new front driveshaft and install the driveshafts.

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Once we got the old transfer case out of the way, we rolled the BW4406 under our Explorer on our floor jack. With the transmission hanging down as low as possible, the jack got things close, but we also used a few ratchet straps strategically placed to hold the big T-case roughly in place while we got the splines lined up. The clocking of the transfer case is also important and dictated by a dowel pin in the face of the transfer case.

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Next we jacked the new (to us) transfer case up and got it roughly in place so we could reinstall the transmission/transfer case crossmember.

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Here is a 1310-1330 conversion U-joint, but it's not quite right. This one has the internal snap rings (that look like a C) and slightly larger caps than the one we need (that would use the external snap rings that look more like a lowercase e). This conversion joint allows us to use the F-150 front driveshaft, which uses 1330 U-joints. The yoke on the front differential is a 1310.

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While we were underneath the Explorer bolting the transfer case shift lever bracket (with the lever removed) to the transmission, we drilled a hole in the transmission tunnel roughly where the shifter would go. We then cut out part of the carpet to access the inside of the transmission tunnel. Here you can just barely see that hole.

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We opened up that hole with a hole saw to get an idea of what would need to be trimmed for the shifter to do what it does.

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A little more work with a body saw, and we can install the shift lever back on the bracket and run the T-case through its functions. Not much space for a shift knob, but if we had to, we could pull the shift lever to shorten it, add threads for a knob, or heat it up and bend it to fit a bit better.